I had the enormous pleasure to attend Nicolas Ghesquière's fourth collection for the maison Louis Vuitton. It's been a year already since the fashion world discovered his first, low-key collection for the brand and ever since the concept becomes ever more clearer.
I usually take a bit of time to think about a collection, look at it a few more times and only then I’m comfortable sharing my thoughts - it just feels right to digest all the information first. This time it took longer- to be precise 3 seasons. We've seen the first collection, we've seen Resort and after the Spring Summer 2015 show and various stops at LV stores the story got more realized.
After a year of following the brand closely it is clear to me that Mr. Ghesquière is mainly doing one, big and new thing: building an entire wardrobe rather than focusing on each season. It seems to be a long process of looking into the future in this fast-fashion world we live in and damn - thank you for that.
Sure, each season has some sort of leading "theme" but each collections core ideas remain unchanged: traveling, a must when it comes to LV and how personality is reflected by how every single woman puts on the clothes differently and mixes elements together individually. It's about being unique. Clothes that reflect every aspect of the multi faced life of the modern woman from romantic lingerie inspired blouses to strict work wear, clothes that grow with the woman and that have the capacity to be used in various situations depending of how they are styled.
It’s shown the best at the newly opened Louis Vuitton Store at avenue Montaigne in Paris: instead of replacing older collections by the newest one, you go from room to room and have all the collections in one shop, starting from the first one. You can find a big sweater from one year ago if you’re looking for it and 5 minutes later you can mix it with the newest Spring Summer 2015 pants only a few steps further away. Brilliant if you ask me – it’s like walking into a huge closet where you can pick and choose the pieces designed by Nicolas Ghesquière so that they reflect you best.
Personality is another big theme in this whole concept, the idea that every woman is different and is going to interpret the same pieces differently. Ghesquière mentioned before that he took some inspiration from Edie Sedgwick, the queen of breaking conventional rules and mixing everything from vintage to high end brands back in the sixties and seventies. If Edie is known for one thing then it is how her way to dress reflected her quirky, capturing personality.
What is interesting about Ghesquière’s concept of Louis Vuitton is that photography is so closely interwoven with the actual fashion here: Juergen Teller captures the girls in random moments where they are introduced by their first name, THEN only the list of what they wear starts. It gives you the impression of being close to the showed girl, it shows some kind of personality coming through just by one single word: the name. The girls are no longer just models, they are themselves wearing clothes. Again – the pieces fit to the woman, not the other way around.
For the Fall Winter 2015 collection the idea of showing personality was taken to a new level by Ghesquière and Teller yet again: the series “Ladies at the bath” don’t show any LV pieces but they focus on the girls, their faces, the way they move. With the casting of the women ranging from the coy looking Rianne van Rompaey to the domineering look of Mica Arganaraz it is to me a huge homage to women and individuality.
So, rather than talking about each collection as I usually do – not here. It feels so much more important to see the bigger picture and what happens: for the first time in a long time we have an actual counterpart to the fast food fashion society we’ve turned into and that we live in. For the first time we’re offered a collection that pays homage to the woman in every situation of her life, a brand that puts girls names, faces and personality into the foreground.
Is it too much to say that instead of writing another chapter in fashion history Mr. Ghesquière rather writes a chapter in the book of how to celebrate every one of us out there, an homage to each woman?
all pictures by me.